Should i paint basement floor

Painting a floor with gloss paint makes it look great. Do keep in mind the paint on a floor does make the floor more slippery. Add some sock feet and that floor now becomes a "slip zone". Especially on a wet cement floor. Especially if its thick layer paint. I'd done both in my homes. But to me, painting a floor did NOT eliminate huge amounts of dust. But, it does make the floor look great. Your call - either way I get rivers. This spring, I built up my landscaping This past week, we had 10 inches of water fall on us in less than a hour period.

My neighbors who had finished basements were tossing out the contents of those finished basements Mind you, I haven't even started my waterproofing project, except for building up the landscaping. I am from columbus, OH. I just finished the dryall and ceilings in my basement. I was checking the local homedepot and other carpet stores.

My main concern is water proofing the concrete floor of my basement. We want to install carpeting in our basement, one homedepot guy suggested a thicker carpet padding with a vapor barrier before laying down the carpet will take care of any water from the cement floors.

I am looking at different options for water proffing or atleast water transfer prevention before getting any carpetting there. ThermalDry- it is not sold in any retail stores, but only installed by some basement finishing system companies.

I have sqft to finish so its a costly option. The local ICI paints guy got this BondPrep for concrete floor water proofing, we are going to try this. I haven't done anything yet. I am still deciding.

Simply in case I or next homeowner decides to pull up the carpet and install tiles. I had just put in carpet from HD with the upgraded Ultra Berberbond padding which has a plastic vapor barrier on one side.

I have never had water in the basement in this 10 year old home. I would not put carpet in the basement if you have any chance of water at all. I will be tiling the floor up now. I don't know about painting the floors. I do know that our basement collects a lot of water on the floors during the 'rainy season', but that is mostly due to leakage from the walls.

We know to stay away from traditional carpet, but tiles aren't really an option for us because of the way our basement floor is. It would cost an ungodly amount of money to compensate for how uneven it is. Anyway, looking into I've run across a product that I'm seriously considering. They interlock like puzzle pieces stating that there is no need for any sort of glue as their product is real interlinking tiles and won't come apart if you hold a chain of them up in the air and are easy to pull up if they get wet, and will dry withing a few hours and then can be put down again.

They're EVA Foam Tiles, so warm and not cold, but I have doubts about the actual possibility of this so-called 'easy' drying. We'd have to move the furniture to pull them up. In your case, however, where your walls are sealed and there is little chance of large amounts of water, this product sounds like the best thing.

The site also says that, due to the products composition, they won't mold, so that's something too. Good luck with whatever you choose to do, and I hope this helped.

The website address is waterrecoverycarpets. I thought about doing the epoxy system that is sold for doing garage floors and throwing some rugs down. I would love to have a cushy carpet floor and home theater system down there but I think I will go with the rugs and possibly the floor epoxy. They sell flakes and color chips you can put in the epoxy for different looks. I had an insurance adjuster out here earlier this week to look at my wet basement and she said do NOT waterproof your concrete floors.

You do need to allow some weeping because if there's a flood, the water pressure will build up under the foundation, no place to go, and your entire foundation could shift. She said to just clean it and leave it alone.

Do not use the garage stuff if you get any type of water or have pets that might sprinkle some. Our basement had some minor seepage issues in summer if it was very wet and humid. We also had two elderly cats that are now gone. The cats were incontinent and anywhere they peed, the floor peeled up even if we cleaned it.

The floor also came up in a few other places, rather it peeled. I'm in the same mess. My basement is partially finished. I have not had any running water thank God! House is 12 years old including foundation. I am putting in an interior french drain system with "Basement Solutions". I have Dry-Lok on the unfinished wall which I am going to pay someone to remove!

Putting nothing on your walls is best. I need to now find a flooring solution for the finished portion, of which hydrostatic pressure has forced moisture up through the floor and has discolored a portion of my soon to be thrown out rug. French drains going in there, too, but I don't know what type of vapor barrier to put down before putting down either carpeting or tiles, although I'd rather have carpeting.

Any suggestions would be helpful. I'm almost finished my own basement renovation project. Since the concrete floor was painted years ago, sealing over it is useless. Instead, I've been looking into subfloor options.

I eventually decided on Superseal All-in-one subfloor. Lay a carpet pad right over it. If you're worried about major flooding, I wouldn't go with carpet or wood flooring; maybe epoxy or some sort of laminate or plastic tile system. From what I understand, sealing the floor won't ever stop water from passing thru the concrete and evaporating into the air; the hydrostatic pressure is too great.

So the better solution is to allow a space for the vapor to collect and reabsorb into the concrete. Laying plastic sheeting or waterproof carpet padding on the concrete may allow the vapor to condense and collect as standing water. If the plastic is wet, you have a problem. If water is wicking up through the concrete from the soil underneath, it is virtually impossible to get any coating to stick; the hydrostatic pressure will simply lift the paint off.

Before attempting to paint, check for seepage by taping foot-square pieces of aluminum foil at several places on the floor it is best to do this during a rainy period. Let the foil in place for several weeks, then remove and examine it. If moisture has collected on the underside of the foil, the floor is seeping. The cause is sometimes a malfunctioning rain-gutter system or improper grading around the building the soil should slope away from the foundation.

Painting a concrete floor require special paint. Most so-called porch-and-floor paints will work if other conditions are good, but it is best to look for a special concrete-floor paint. Epoxy paints are the toughest, but even these can fail if other conditions are not right. Always read and carefully follow the directions on the paint container. The floor must be completely dry before painting. Before beginning the painting job, adjust the temperature of the room so it is between 50 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit, which is optimal for drying epoxy paint.

Consult the paint labels for precise information on the ideal working temperature. Though some epoxy products or floor paint are an all-in-one solution, others require priming the floor before application. To apply primer to the concrete, use paintbrushes and a paint roller. Use long strokes as you go, and try to apply the primer as evenly as possible over the entire area.

If bubbles or puddles form, roll over them with a mostly dry roller to smooth out the application. When you are finished, wait a full 24 hours for the primer to dry before moving on to painting. Before painting, apply painter's tape along the walls wherever they touch the floor. This will keep the color from spreading to unwanted surfaces and make the painting process much quicker. Two-part epoxy paints have a limited window before they begin to harden, so the quicker you can apply the paint, the better.

Follow the manufacturer's directions for mixing the paint. With two-part epoxies, mix a limited amount so the paint will not harden before you finish the application. One-part floor paints should be thoroughly stirred or shaken to mix the pigments.

Epoxy paint can emit strong fumes. This is especially worrisome if you're in a basement that doesn't have good ventilation. Always take care to use breathing protection, such as a mask or respirator, while mixing and using epoxy paints.

Use a paintbrush to "cut in" the edges of the floor adjacent to the walls. Immediately after this is done, begin rolling the "field"—the expanse of the floor inside the edges. As you did with priming, start in the areas furthest from the exit. Make sure that the coat is as flat and seamless as possible. Let the first coat dry thoroughly, as instructed by the label directions, then apply a second coat of paint.